How to place offset nuts. This is because offset nuts are at their best where cams don't work at all, namely in pin scars, less parallel-sided cracks, and small flaring pots. With flaring cracks, nuts are more susceptible to being tugged loose by outward-pulling forces, so it’s Oct 31, 2024 · Most offset climbing nuts, like the DMM Alloy Offset, the DMM Peenut, and the Black Diamond Offset don't do as well in more parallel-sided cracks, but that's okay as most people are more likely to place a cam in these places anyway. Nuts can oppose each other to create a multidirectional piece. We have been climbing for a while, guiding professionally Jan 5, 2018 · Alexander Blum wrote: I don't think you need regular and offset nuts. I am curious if Nathan feels differently though. But like offset cams, they take a bit of practice to place. These Alloy Offsets are tapered How to place and judge trad climbing gear including Nuts, Hexes & Cams. Pins were usually pounded in with that same degree of upward tilt, so the scars give placements that result in the optimum pull direction for your offset nuts. JB Mountain Skills 32. 8K subscribers Subscribe How do climbers protect a fall with our little wired pieces of metal? In this episode I cover the complete basics of nut placement and the thought process behind it. com Placing Offset Nuts Offset nuts—metal wedges that taper both top to bottom and front to back—are considered mandatory in areas where flaring cracks or pinscars abound, like Joshua Tree National Park or Yosemite National Park. Feb 2, 2018 · On aid climbs and big walls, offset nuts are an indispensable tool that turn otherwise unprotectable seams or incipient cracks into a reasonable climb. I went full offset a while ago, and have never looked back. If it is inward and upward flaring, you can use any kind of nut, but an offset might be a safer bet because it can be set in place to prevent it from moving. But if you’re new to trad climbing, how do you make sure that you’re getting the best climbing nuts? With climbing experience, you build your own personal preference. Placing nuts are intuitive, they are inexpensive, and will last you a long time. I have never encountered a route where that bit me in the rear, offset nuts seem to fit everywhere a regular nut would, and then some. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbing. See full list on climbing. . Neil Gresham gives us a masterclass in the basics of placing nuts as Trad climbing protection. May 26, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Remember to check out our selection Oct 25, 2024 · As small cams have improved, more climbers have chosen to carry and place far more cams on a pitch than nuts, and it's this generation's cam-centric climbers that have thrust offset nuts into the limelight. This old-school technique is rarely used nowadays because there is usually something else better and quicker to place, especially if you have some offset cams. If you enjoyed this Hit that Feb 6, 2018 · If regular nuts and most hexes are offset when placed in their sideways position, why are offset nuts so popular and even sold? For example: Is the angle significantly different between DMM Wallnuts in their sideways position and DMM HB Alloy Offsets that they work for different placements? I can see for smaller and micro offset nuts it being necessary as you can only get so small by turning a Jun 4, 2025 · Climbing nuts are one of the first pieces of trad protection climbers will purchase. zutbq xgntq pnds bycjsb mbphayf ccaq yxyd vxpjgu dhmlkm knpr