Best climbing cams As with many single axle designs, they feel a little 'old-school'. Six cams were tested in the climbing cam category in 2018. Finding the best climbing cam is a process, but below are a few of the highest rated cams available. The three-cam design also means that it does not work well in flared cracks where four-cam units do much better. Editor’s Choice: Metolius Roll Up Stick Clip Kit ($225) Mar 1, 2023 · Acquiring the best climbing cams does not come cheap but is a great help in your climbing activity. The “TripleGrip” cam lobes have a raw aluminum finish and a crosshatch pattern of tiny grooves to increase friction and reduce walking in slick rock. The cam lobes of every best climbing cam in UK are made of some aluminum alloy. Apr 16, 2010 · I don't consider them mandatory for any Yosemite or sandstone routes, but climbers in more pocketed areas often swear by them. They call it the Range Finder system. 35) and two cams that were larger that 1. Value Sep 30, 2010 · With the wide cam lobes, and awesome range we recommend these cams for bottomless cracks in soft stone (thankfully these two factors tend to go hand-in-hand in sandstone climbing areas). It is not ideal for aid climbing; better for free climbing. Available in six sizes, the new friends are vying for a place on your rack with burly anodized aluminum lobes, an ergonomic thumb loop, extendable Dyneema slings, and a size/color scheme that matches other top brands like Black Diamond and DMM. Small Cams: #00-0. Cams are classed by climbers as active protection as they have moving parts. 3 ounces), and the Wild Country Friends (22. This Aug 30, 2013 · It was the first climbing cam to seriously challenge the CCH Alien for the title of “best cam for shallow and awkward placements. And most cams will last for many years of normal use before needing to be replaced. Feb 2, 2024 · Last update: 2025-05-31 / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API. That said, usually a climbing cam with a flexible stem and narrow head will work in a Tricam placement. Since free climbing is what the vast majority of us do with our climbing cams, it makes sense that we rate it as the Oct 1, 2020 · So you’ve taken up climbing, but decided that sport climbing is too soft and you’re looking for a bit more grit, pain, and fear. Strength: 14kn (all sizes) 10kn (placed passively) Weight: size 0 = 84g / size 4 = 221g. People have suggested Metolius, using air compressor, brushes, white lightening, WD40, and other items/materials for cleaning and lubing. They place well; and expand a surprising amount for the smallness. 8-4. Climbers, both new and experienced, were used to solicit feedback while on single pitch routes and multi-pitch routes. They come in a variety of sizes, and the one described here has a volume of 60 mL (2 fl oz). Before peeing on your partner’s cam, try the standard method: Clean it in warm, soapy water, and then lube the moving parts with WD-40, bike-chain lube, or a climbing-specific lube. 3 to a #3 doesn't have the mind-blowing weight savings as theCamalot Ultralights (21. Shop for Cams at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. Since climbing cams are pricey, it will be better to borrow a climbing cam first or to gain experience. 97 ounces, a set of C4s from . Head: The head of a cam is where you will find the lobes. 3 size), the Metolius Ultralight Master Cams(23. Cams were used by a wide array of climbers on dozens of climbs, primarily on sandstone and granite. 50). The just fit places other cams don't, hold where other cams don't, are silly flexible so they don't walk, and overall confidence inspiring. We also found that the u-stem cams are much easier to clean with a nut tool if they get wedged in there. Find the best climbing cams from Black Diamond, DMM, Fixe, Metolius, Omega Pacific, Totem, Trango, Wild Country. Nuts are usually sold in sets of around ten. Panasonic LUMIX FZ2500 is the best camera you can buy for Sep 8, 2020 · Master Cams are a really solid set of cams - which is both a plus point and their downfall. On the downside this means they are very inflexible along the stem and so are subject to walking - a big drawback for a micro cam. The Aug 9, 2024 · The Best Climbing Cams. We don't particularly like using them when climbing near our limits, but on easier routes, especially long multi-pitch, we like to carry one due to its increased versatility, and feel like we can often get by with one Link Cam where we might have needed two normal cams. Apr 29, 2024 · Still, climbing hardware continues to evolve, from refinements on classic gear like belay devices, to more-ergonomic iterations of staples like quickdraws, to more compact and lighter designs. Climbing cams are devices that are used to protect a climber in the event of a fall. 79 ounces without the . The shark fin tooth pattern on the lobes gives excellent bite in any soft rock, from limestone to sandst Sep 9, 2013 · Yes you can always add runners, but it would be nice if this cam had a longer sling. They come in six sizes, ranging from a purple one-inch piece (they follow the same color scheme as Black Diamond cams), down to an incredibly tiny 7. Aug 12, 2024 · We think the DMM Dragonfly cams are some of the best small camming devices you can buy, especially among those that largely follow the “alien” design. Most cam heads contain four lobes, but some—TCUs (Three Cam Units)—contain three. If you combine these with the Metolius FS Mini carabiners or CAMP Nano 22, you will have the lightest possible climbing rack. Apr 9, 2021 · The Metolius Ultralight Master Cam is a single-stem unit with a good cam angle for increased holding power. In the right situation, Link Cams can be advantageous weapons on a free climber's rack. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Jan 30, 2018 · Free Climbing. When shopping for cams, pay attention to the following: Number of cam lobes; Stem design; Number of axles; Expansion range; Offset cams; Shop Cams. Searching for the best climbing cams? We've bought and tested 24 models over the past 10 years, and our current review features 10 of the best camming devices found on climber's racks today. ” It has a narrow head, which makes it easy to get in pin scars, and it comes with all the other benefits of a single stem unit. 2 is strangely very flexible. We’re here to help you choose the best climbing cams so you can jam your way up that next crack 5 days ago · Trigger keeper in action on the Black Diamond #4 Quick Review. 75° Camming Angle | Proven performance places and cleans quickly and efficiently. Apr 4, 2025 · Sometimes the best cam for free climbing is the one that protects the best and feels the safest, so we wouldn't hesitate to free climb with Totem Cams or Fixe Hardware Alien Revolution when free climbing in areas with pin scars. Weighing in at 27. According to users, the cam is popular for its direct-bias loading function that enables all lobes to proportionally share the weight - a function that apparently works impressively in real-life climbing conditions. 79 ounces, but without a . More info: DMM Website Jan 30, 2018 · Cam for cam, the Master Cams are lighter than almost every other brand. 1. These will give you a good range of sizes. Dec 19, 2019 · Free Climbing. But this is more an issue of etiquette. Aid Climbing. As new cams have hit the market, and old cams have been updated, we have purchased them and kept on climbing, ensuring that the selection here it the most up to date. Climbing Nuts 101 will help you make that decision when you're getting your first gear for trad climbing. 2025's Top 5 Best Rock Climbing Cams Top Rated and Reviewed. In this situation, you will need to pick the brands that suit best with your climbing ability. . Below, you’ll find the best climbing hardware available in 2024. May 17, 2025 · BEST FOR: LIGHTWEIGHT. 5 ; The best clone of the much loved CCH Alien, Totem Basics are Totems follow-up to the acclaimed Totem Cams. Jan 30, 2018 · DMM has put a lot of thought into the design of their cam lobes, all the way down to the micro level. Each alloy is listed as a number, such as 6081 You can trust our selection for Best Climbing Cams. 80 cam ( maybe a 2. The thumb loop makes these cams easier to place when you're pumped and give you something soft to gnaw on if you have to hold the cam in your mouth. The world’s best-selling, most trusted cam. Read more. Viewing 5 posts - 1 through 5 (of 5 total) Author. Our expert reviewers have climbed traditional routes the world over, big and small, and feature a combined 40 years of climbing Apr 11, 2019 · Weight. i haven't whipped on them yet so i dont know about the durability, but i fucked a . Apr 9, 2023 · It could weaken the cam’s nylon sling slightly. 40 or 0. These cams are great for free climbing. Placed correctly, cams offer excellent hold, particularly in places where passive pieces of gear will not, such as parallel-sided cracks. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. Mar 13, 2018 · Climber’s Best Friend | The first camming device ever made for trad climbing newly redesigned for the modern vertical world. This article will provide a top 4 list of the best climbing cams, as well as an in-depth comparison of each product. This topic has 0 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 1 hour, 20 minutes ago by Peak Packer. Jan 30, 2018 · The Wild Country Friends takes old single axle, thumb loopless design, and updates this classic to compete neck and neck with modern cams. Medium cams are versatile tools that can be essential for your climbing adventures, especially on big walls where shallow placements are common. See every brand, compare every detail, and find the best price. Range Consider upgrading your climbing gear with some of the best medium cam selections available in the market today. They find their way into more placements than almost any other small cam. 3 or . In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. USA Nano 22 will let you rack up without weighing you down on long trad multi-pitch and alpine climbs. Panasonic LUMIX FZ2500 4K – Premium Choice. The Black Diamond Camalot C4 is the gold standard climbing cam and recent improvements have shaved 10% of weight off of these workhorses. Dec 19, 2019 · Step 1: 1 set . To help you in buying the best climbing cams, we are here with a comprehensive buyer’s guide. Look for cams with thumb loops for easier handling and rigid stems for stability. Feb 21, 2025 · Differences in cam angle probably only make a significant difference in a lab or a perfect parallel crack. 5f. Then, in the last 5-10 years there have been a lot of new cams introduced that give the Alien stiff competition: Metolius Master Cam and Black Diamond Camalot Even climbing on Little Cottonwood Granite with weird flares and pin scars, one of my Metolius cams or an offset cam/nut fit the same or better than an equivalent Totem. While climbing on a windy day at the City of Rocks in Idaho, our lead tester noticed the finger-sized Master Cams blowing upwards with the wind. The C. Because We have worked hard studying on "Climbing Cams" and analyzing 41103 reviews for Climbing Oct 4, 2022 · We've done the hard work for you and read through thousands of reviews to find the best features for climbing cams. Our testers are all very familiar with how each BD size corresponds to how their hands feel in the cracks, making it easy to select the right cam. Anatomy of a Cam. The invention of the spring loaded camming device (commonly called simply "cams") in the 1970's revolutionized the climbing world. The strength, durability, and grip of these little climbing tools will be the difference between having a safe experience and a dangerous one. 2 to approximately BD#2) Totems are undoubtable the best. On that note, Wild Country has reduced the number of cams in its line-up with the Helium Friends (by increasing the range and the overlap of ranges between units Sep 30, 2015 · Good, solid, single axle cams with a useful double sling design. M. The information you see in this review has been collected by two main testers, Matt Bento and Andy Wellman, but also builds on years of previous testing of older models, a A climbing cam is an essential component, so it isn’t a good idea to compromise on the quality. 50 (maybe a 0. Jan 30, 2018 · Totems are the best cam for aid climbing and hard-to-protect free climbs: The super light, narrow headed Ultralight Master Cam have you covered in small cracks and flares: Rating Categories: Black Diamond Camal Black Diamond Camal Black Diamond Camalot: Totem Cam: Metolius Ultralight Free Climbing (20%) Sep 22, 2022 · Best Climbing Cameras to Buy in 2022! 1. Now 10% lighter, the redesigned Camalot C4 has eclipsed our classic, cornerstone cams, and features a more modern design with new touch-points like a wider trigger for easier handling, and our innovative trigger keeper for compact racking with sizes #4, #5 and #6. Our double-axle design provides extra stability, while our c-loop cable stem makes placement easier than ever. May 9, 2024 · Let’s dive into the goings-on about one of the most talked-about climbing cams in the market today: The Totem Cam. In the real world of climbing, more essential than a cam angle is how well the cam is placed. Oct 31, 2024 · Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. 2 z4. A set of these featherweight cams would do well in the alpine or on any expedition where weight is a big concern. Nov 9, 2020 · The Wild Country Zero Friends have been newly redesigned and re-released in 2020, and are one of the best smaller camming devices you can buy today. Performance . A. Jul 24, 2019 · Many users will agree that they are the best climbing cams you can get your hands on. The lack of a thumb loop makes these cams less than optimal for aid climbing. Sep 29, 2023 · Above: DMM Dragon (top), Wild Country Friend (bottom) Cam stems are made with either a thumb loop at the end of the stem or a thumb press. K. Apr 22, 2025 · Best Climbing Cams. Our Analysis and Test Results Feb 22, 2025 · Differences in cam angle probably only make a significant difference in a lab or a perfect parallel crack. Totem Basic. Z4's are fine as are aliens, wild countries are good and have an extendable sling but the . 1 and 0. yap, i have a 0. P. 5 to 2 (4 cams), 3 different finger sized cams (3 cams), 1 full set stoppers, 6 alpine quickdraws, plus the 8 lightweight wiregate carabiners needed for racking your new cams and stoppers, and a nut tool. The ability to quickly and safely protect parallel-sided cracks opened up the world of traditional climbing to whole new realms. For those looking for a cheaper cam, or a more modern single axle cam, these are a good choice. Best Application. Jan 30, 2018 · Totems are the best cam for aid climbing and hard-to-protect free climbs: These cams are awesome for long Yosemite free climbs and Indian Creek splitters: A top choice for smaller sizes due to the widest range and incredible ease of use: These are the most popular cams at Indian Creek due to their great range and durability Dec 31, 2022 · Climbing cams are devices that are placed in cracks in order to protect climbers. When you take the cams off of your harness, the triggers are never going to get caught or impede your progress in any way. Original Manufacturer (like Metolius, Totem, DMM, Black Diamond) Runout Customs (slings + trigger wires, great price, solid work, fast) Mountain Tools (will sling almost everything, fast, deep climber history) Oct 21, 2014 · The Black Diamond Camalot X4 is a similar version, but are not offset - this cam wins our Editors' Choice Award, as do the Black Diamond Camalot, one of the most popular cams on the planet. At a Glance. We tested each through a wide range of fissures, scar pins, parallel-sided cracks, around blocks, and the like. Camalot™ C4 Jun 2, 2010 · The cams feature a u-stum design that allows for ease of handling while simultaneously providing a high clip-in point for clean aid climbing. Apr 26, 2025 · ‘Tier S’ cams !! All I want to use! I would love if there was at least one cam that was smaller than than the 0. Apr 24, 2019 · WeighMyRack does not resling cams or replace trigger wires, but we know a lot of great folks who do! The best place to resling cams. Aluminum Alloys. The best climbing cam is going to be your best friend out there on your rock climbing adventure. They have a flexible cable stem and recessed cam spring design, and also have a narrow head design, which is optimal for shallow placements. Original 13. 10 and 2. They're nice for aiding though, with the differential-loading or whatever they call it. Today, the Fixe Aliens remain a compelling small cam but they do face strong competition from the DMM Dragonfly. Aug 21, 2023 · There are many different types and brands of climbing cams, and it can be difficult to choose the right one. May 3, 2011 · Additionally, the range on these cams is among the lowest of all the cams that we tested making it necessary to carry more cams if you're building your rack completely of Friends. The C3 is ideal for places with small, parallel-sided pods. Metolius Climbing color codes its cams to help you gauge the quality of a placement. May 24, 2020 · When we reviewed them in 2018, the Fixe Hardware Alien Revolutions offered everything we loved about the original CCH Aliens with some nice improvements. Also, since totem makes amazing cams, I bet they can make amazing carabiners that would color match the cams! Just an idea. 31 inches. Jun 15, 2020 · Totems are the best cam for aid climbing and hard-to-protect free climbs: The super light, narrow headed Ultralight Master Cam have you covered in small cracks and flares: Rating Categories: Black Diamond Camal Black Diamond Camal Black Diamond Camalot: Totem Cam: Metolius Ultralight Free Climbing (20%) In every size you can get them (a hair over BD#0. Oct 19, 2021 · They're an essential part of any climber's trad rack, but what makes the best climbing nuts? There's many different styles and brands to choose from when deciding on which ones you're going to buy. Some climbers argue thumb loops are critical for ease of grabbing the cam to trigger and reducing the chance of accidentally dropping a cam, while other climbers find handling a cam with a thumb press just as easy. Well, trad climbing is your answer! Unlike the early days, modern trad climbers have access to gear such as spring-loaded camming devices, commonly known as cams. 8mm, or . Feb 7, 2010 · This is the lightest cam we tested and maybe the lightest camming device currently made. 2 x4 on a small whipper so they are on my shitlist. 4 size). On the upside they hold well, feel extremely solid, are easy to place and are very durable. Feb 25, 2015 · A single cam typically costs between $30 and $80, depending on brand and size. Though it could almost fool you with its extremely small and thin design, the Nano 22 is a full-strength climbing carabiner, and it is great for racking cams and other trad gear. Mar 23, 2012 · So I have done some research on here and using Google on using different types of cleaning material and lubes for cams. The flexible cams is 20 per cent lighter than the originals. The Trigger Keeper that is equipped on the C4s is what makes them so good. Climbers on Internet forums like to debate the merits of various options. Number of Cam Lobes Climbing cams (A. The cam lobes of every best climbing cam in USA are made of some aluminum alloy. Each alloy is listed as a number, such as 6081 Aug 11, 2021 · The best micro cam for free climbing despite being my least favourite micro cam would be the dragon fly, its the widest of the micro's and has a slightly grindy action but its also the strongest and is stiff enough. Black Diamond Camalot C4 The Black Diamond Camalot C4 is one of the most popular climbing cams on the market. Easily choose and compare the Best Rock Climbing Cams for you all in one place. We really liked the fact that the cams are so light and compact compared to other cams that we tested. To stick with Metolius' Design and shave some weight try Metolius Ultralight Powercam . (Check out our Best Climbing Cams Review for a complete breakdown of the cams we tested). Jan 25, 2010 · Aliens use to be hands down my favorite cam for big walls and climbs where you have tight and shallow placements. Aperture: 2. The guide comprises various factors that you should check in a climbing cam before buying it. camming devices, also known as climbing friends, or more correctly Spring Loaded Camming Devices) are pieces of rock climbing equipment that fit into parallel-sided or even slightly flared cracks to provide protection. dxcn wkwwn hykshd ovhxj jxtu hin zeha kkzwy wxa xsq