Best nuts for alpine climbing. May 6, 2025 · Helmets and Harnesses.

Best nuts for alpine climbing Our team has 10 years of experience in testing helmets. Curved nuts have a concave face on one side and a convex face on the other. It really depends where you are climbing and what styles of trad you like. These packs carry ropes, tools, and food. Apr 19, 2022 · Alpine climbing on the other hand is almost limitless. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbin May 8, 2025 · Life in the mountains is your passion, but getting there requires a good deal of equipment. Black Diamond Offset Stoppers. 95. 5”). That crag or gym harness you wear repeatedly throughout the year probably isn’t an ideal choice when you decide to undertake your first (or umpteenth) alpine adventure. It hits the key marks most climbers seek while presenting a solid value. Mixed climbing: Scaling routes composed of both rock and ice. Sep 27, 2016 · When it comes to nutrition, the best performance fuel and “ideal diet” are highly debated topics with a range of opinions and research available. I have a set of BD C4 cams . May 15, 2023 · Ice climbing: Scaling frozen waterfalls or ice-covered rock using ice tools and screws, and/or nuts and camming devices for protection. Agreed. Best Overall: Black Diamond Technician; Best for Technical Alpine Climbing: Blue Ice Choucas Pro; Best for Mountaineering: Petzl Altitude; Best for Projecting: Arc’teryx AR-395a May 16, 2023 · Located just thirty minutes north up the East Rifle Creek from the small town of Rifle, CO, sits Rifle Mountain Park – one of the best limestone sport climbing areas on the Western Slope. I'm located in the Canadian Rockies and most of our trad climbs are limestone with a few quartizite crags. M. Climbing Nuts 101 will help you make that decision when you're getting your first gear for trad climbing. It can include bouldering and sport climbing at high elevations, for example, Upper Chaos Canyon ( 1 ) in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. What are Peenuts and how do they differ from traditional climbing nuts? Peenuts are a type of climbing protection gear specifically designed to fit into irregularly shaped cracks in rock. Having a number of alpine draws—60cm slings with two carabiners—is crucial. Oct 29, 2018 · After years of climbing alpine and rock routes all over the world I’ve placed or replaced my fair share of pitons. In an ideal world, the second can just grab the nut by its wire and gently maneuver it out of the placement, clip it to their harness and continue free climbing (the best style). Oct 19, 2021 · They're an essential part of any climber's trad rack, but what makes the best climbing nuts? There's many different styles and brands to choose from when deciding on which ones you're going to buy. every area is different but that one fits a large majority of climbs. Climbing Nuts Huge brand selection - Free delivery to UK from £75 - Buy online now! Dispatch of goods within 24 h Expert service Alpine climbing (29) Climbing May 7, 2014 · In reply to Rick Graham: Agree - i'm probably counting on friction from the immobile cam (an unmeasured quantity) rather than any camming action. These will give you a good range of sizes. Some draws are best used on hard sport routes that you plan on projecting, others shine when you want to shave grams off your harness on long ascents. Oct 31, 2024 · Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. Essential for all trad climbers and alpinists who like clean climbing - chocks. A set of each of those will get you started for cheap (though the nuts aren't really a deal, you can definitely find better). Nut tool (chock pick): A nut tool is essential for freeing cams and nuts that get stuck in cracks. What we don’t: Not the lightest or cheapest set-up. 75, #1, and #2 is pretty much standard, as well as three or so consecutive micros that cover a bit of the range below the #5. 1 Traditional Climbing Rack - A standard rack: Cams and Set of Nuts. Comparison Table; 1. The Black Diamond Camalot C4 is the gold standard climbing cam and recent improvements have shaved 10% of weight off of these workhorses. 5mm to 115mm (or 0. We've worn these brain buckets in all manners of conditions, from multi-pitch trad to single-pitch sport. 3- 3, Dmm nuts, as well as their offsets. Nov 26, 2022 · For steep alpine routes, the Petzl Lynx is what we consider the best crampons for mountaineering. Nov 30, 2023 · As great sources of fiber, protein, and healthy fats, nuts are full of health benefits. This versatility offers users the ability to handle various climbing scenarios, whether at the gym or rockfaces. Petzl Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with a Grigri Get some nuts and that will probably carry you into plenty of 5. This In Choosing Climbing Nuts, Paul offers some advice on what type to choose and how to rack them. Find out what you need! All tutorials and quizzes on May 3, 2019 · Nuts are removable securing devices that act as an anchor for alpine climbing. I have a single rack of BD cams from 0. I suppose all gear has a place on the scale from crap to bomber and its a calculation balancing the difficulty of the climbing against the quality and quantity of available pro that propels us upwards or on occasion send me scuttling back to the ground Oct 23, 2021 · With one at each end, the Spirit Express quickdraw is the BMW of the sport-climbing world — pricey, but so nice to drive. Apr 4, 2025 · The Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights are everything we love about the original Camalot C4s with a weight reduction of 25%. Nuts. Previously the editor of Climbing magazine, Julie thrives on creating high-quality, inspirational stories and photos for climbers of all disciplines. ALPIDEX Climbing Nuts Set 10 pcs ; Size 1 - 10. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. Larger nuts can be placed in either of two aspects (hexes in three aspects) to suit different-width cracks, with either the main faces or the sides in contact with the rock. WITH PAUL RACHELE. How to Rack Climbing Gear. For traditional alpine climbing, bring ropes, harnesses, helmets, cams, nuts, and other protective gear. Sharing is caring! Jun 6, 2021 · Rigging two opposed stoppers/nuts in a vertical crack it's kind of an old-school trick, which dates back to the Paleolithic era before cams were invented. A standard Rack (SR) of cams generally refers to a single set of cams from 10. This article focus on those from reputable brands, the kinds of nuts that most climbers looking to get started on their first free climbing nut rack should look at. But for those that have used them for free climbing, especially on less traveled granite, and in the alpine, they tend to become an invaluable addition to the rack for many climbs. Rachele has been climbing since 2005 and became an IFMGA-certified guide in 2016. Aug 22, 2024 · Then consider that trad climbing allows you to explore some of the most beautiful climbing areas in the world while also avoiding the crowds that now seem to be the norm at most sport crags. DMM offsets are great nuts but there's only 5 of them, so if you buy a set of regular nuts (DMM wallnuts are again awesome, but most brands of nuts are also good to great) you'll have 10 more pieces. 9 climbing to a seasoned veteran, until the ice gets thin, airy, or rotten and won’t accept good screws. Petzl Attache: The Best Overall. The best carabiner for most people is CAMP Photon Wire. Quick Answer: Best Climbing Harnesses. This article will highlight some of the key variables to consider when selecting a rack of pitons including the type of rock and the climbing area. Black Diamond Offset Stoppers will work perfectly as a Apr 14, 2025 · But worry not! Here’s the lowdown on what to look out for—the nuts and bolts of climbing nuts, if you will! Material Matters: Most climbing nuts are made from aluminum, which balances strength and weight perfectly, just like the ultimate climbing partner. We think this is one more reason they make a particularly great nut for alpine climbing because you can frequently get away with more potential placements with fewer pieces. We like to compliment the Black Diamond Stoppers with a set of offset nuts. Jan 6, 2020 · Even now, after several updates and a lot more fierce competition, they remain one of the very best nuts for the tiniest of fissures and are our Top Pick for a Micro Nut. The average climber carries between 12 and 24 nuts. For a long multi-pitch, I’m fairly insistent clients eat protein in the morning along with complex carbs, like apples. The design must be simple and easy to use with gloves. Biners for racking. It should handle snow, rock, and sharp gear. The exact number depends on who you ask, but six to eight is a safe place to start. For via ferrata, you’ll need a via ferrata kit consisting of a harness, helmet, and via ferrata lanyards. Shop climbing protection. 5 days ago · Trigger keeper in action on the Black Diamond #4 Quick Review. Racking on a Gear Sling May 1, 2025 · Finding the best alpine climbing pack is important for your safety and comfort in the mountains. Alpine Sports is an Irish‐owned company that began its journey in 2010, growing from humble beginnings to become a trusted source of climbing and mountaineering gear both at home and worldwide. For general free climbing, we recommend the DMM Peenuts, for aid climbing or thin free climbing (think Eldorado Canyon) we like the DMM Brass Offset. May 9, 2024 · Its name is a give away - these climbing nuts are incredibly lightweight, making them an effortless addition to your climbing gear. So, with that out of the way, here are some of our top trad climbing essentials for the fall of 2024. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. Oct 20, 2024 · Rock Climbing: You will frequently have to climb steep rock faces in the mountains and being able to lead, set protection cams nuts bolts etc. Nuts are much lighter, and much cheaper than cams, allowing you to bring more of them. May 6, 2025 · Helmets and Harnesses. Trango Phase Alpine ($27) Best uses: Alpine, trad climbing Weight: 80 g Length: 60 cm (sling length) What we like: More durable and versatile than other alpine draws on the market. Also, once a climber reaches a certain familiarity with ice, the technique becomes somewhat repetitive. 6 or so alpine draws a few of your sport quickdraws, some 7mm cord to build anchors and some lockers. In other words, at high elevation and above treeline. 10 trad climbing as well as alpine stuff. One of the best value for climbing nuts is the full set of Black Diamond Stoppers, which come in at $119. Feb 25, 2015 · Finally, consider the areas you will be climbing, and the type of climbing you want to be doing. Find out how to position and remove nuts safely. For most areas, doubling up cams in BD sizes #. set of nuts. For alpine climbing and skiing, I advocate for a 50 to 55 percent carbohydrate diet. That’s why our Apr 11, 2014 · People who don’t eat, bonk. When they bonk, they need simple sugars because they’ve used up all their mitochondrial glycogen stores. Based in Kerry, we’ve carefully built our range of clothing and equipment around the “fast and light” ethos, choosing only brands and products Neil Gresham gives us a masterclass in the basics of placing nuts as Trad climbing protection. . The Spirit’s talents aren’t limited to sport climbing, however. Oct 4, 2023 · To complete your climbing gear kit, make sure to also check out our articles on the best climbing shoes, ropes, quickdraws, and helmets. if it is, you did something else very wrong. Though it could almost fool you with its extremely small and thin design, the Nano 22 is a full-strength climbing carabiner, and it is great for racking cams and other trad gear. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. They’re secure and provide superior traction on low and high grade routes, thanks to the 14 steel spikes on each foot. DMM HB Alloy Offsets 5 days ago · How much does a full rack of climbing nuts cost? A full rack of climbing nuts will cost around $120. Alpine climbing, in general, is: 1) a long way from the trailhead; 2) any combination of rock, snow, glacier, and ice; and 3) lots of moderately technical terrain (up to 5. 3 days ago · Dyneema Sling . Alpine Draws and QuickDraws In most trad climbing situations, barring straight-in splitters, you’ll need to extend placements to reduce rope drag. Examples: Clipping two or three cams and nuts in a row with nonlocking carabiners(1); your master point is in the lowest of the cam slings. Aug 8, 2022 · Julie Ellison started climbing in Alabama more than a decade ago and is now living out her dream of van life with her pup, a 60-lb. lap dog named Lizzie. Nov 23, 2021 · Nut Cleaning. Based on the original curved design first used by Mark Vallance in 1979, this nut or Rock on a Wire is another favorite of UK based climbers and discerning climbers worldwide. We tested each through a wide range of fissures, scar pins, parallel-sided cracks, around blocks, and the like. Nuts or wires, rocks or stoppers. May 17, 2025 · BEST FOR: LIGHTWEIGHT. Jun 21, 2023 · Our Selection of the 9 Best Climbing Carabiners of 2025. These anchors are equalized, redundant, and have very little or no extension. 5-3 C4 cam size. All tutorials and quizzes ab Jul 11, 2024 · Best Premade Alpine Draw 5. The C. While hardly a day-in, day-out piece of protection for everyday trad climbing, they are considered mandatory on any big wall aid route or free climb that requires tiny protection. Group your nuts by size with small nuts (including brass and copper micros) on one carabiner, medium nuts on another, and big nuts on a third (if you’re carrying more than 16 nuts). Compared to cams, they’re lighter and considerably cheaper, so it makes a lot of sense to have a good set of nuts clipped to your climbing harness, especially for longer routes. For more than 20 years, I’ve clipped bolts, alpine climbed, played semi-professional tennis, and completed multiple triathlons, all the while figuring out what works and what doesn’t. Sep 8, 2022 · Rock climbing nuts may not provide the same level of versatile, multi-directional protection as cams, but they are still essential gear for any trad climber. Among the list of gear you need to venture safely into the alpine is a safe and reliable mountaineering harness. 6). Those nuts are: Wild Country Rocks. 12 (7a+) and higher. May 8, 2018 · Nuts, pitons, friends & more: additional equipment is required on classic alpine routes without bolts. They are cheap, strong, durable and relatively easy to use. If it's on the market, we've most surely gotten our mitts on it. USA Nano 22 will let you rack up without weighing you down on long trad multi-pitch and alpine climbs. Ice climbing for the most part feels like 5. DMM Halfnuts. Jul 3, 2012 · An alpine anchor “chains” pieces by clipping together the full-strength loops and slings on nuts, cams, or fixed pro. Nuts are available in different shapes to help the climber find the best fit for a given crack. Ball Nuts? For those that have heard of them but have never tried them, they are thought of as a piece of aid climbing pro or a relic from a bygone climbing era. We were initially skeptical that these lightweight climbing cams wouldn't hold up as well as their predecessors, but after a couple of years of use at this point, they've held many falls, been up quite a few large walls, and are in just as good a shape as when we bought them. Oct 25, 2024 · They are a little harder to clean than more traditional, non-offset nuts, and you do need a few smaller pieces to mate them with for a complete rack. Avoid steels unless you’re keen on prematurely developing biceps that rival gorillas there's a lot of information in the stickied post on this sub but standard rack is doubles . You have a few basic options for where to stow your climbing gear: on a gear sling or on your harness gear loops —or you can use a combination of the two. In areas such as the Shawangunks of New York, you rarely need very many (if any) large pieces. Whatever you call them, these wedges of metal are a key element in every trad climber’s protection system. Mountaineering: Climbing to the peaks or high points of mountains by rock, mixed, or ice climbing, mixed, and/or hiking. P. Below is a list of the best rock climbing harnesses: Black Diamond Momentum; Arc’teryx FL-365; Black Diamond Solution; Edelrid Jay II; Petzl Sitta; Black Diamond Big Gun Jun 24, 2024 · Through testing these harnesses, I drilled down to the details to find what features make these the best climbing harnesses and the ideal application for each style. He’s taught hundreds of clients and students the basics of gear placement using the simple acronym—ROCK STARS. 4 Alpine Quickdraws - 60cm sling plus 2 lightweight carabiners per draw. The pack comes optimized for technical alpine climbing with a crampon pouch, a low-profile wand/picket pocket, simple side straps, and a removable lid. offsets nuts are really nice to have When it comes to alpine trad climbing, nuts are a climber's best friend. Feb 10, 2023 · Alpine climbing, also known as alpinism, is defined as climbing anywhere in an alpine environment. 3 to 4, some C3s, and a blue X4 (always forget the number) in addition to tricams and nuts. Dec 19, 2019 · Step 3: Double up the finger sizes (3 cams), add in 1-3 micro cams, buy a set of micro nuts (usually 6-8 nuts), add another #3 and a #4 sized cam. DMM makes some of the best nuts, and their Wallnuts and Offsets are hugely popular, and work really well. Feb 2, 2024 · Wild Country Rocks. Wild Country Superlight Rocks. Jan 6, 2020 · All the nuts we tested can be used in two orientations but the CAMP model proved the best for its ability and stability to be placed along its less common axis. are very important skills to have for alpine endeavor. Equipment: Depending on the type of climbing you plan to do, you’ll need specific equipment. Nuts are usually sold in sets of around ten. Black Diamond Stoppers. I mostly climb on midwest sandstone and really like hand cracks and larger finger cracks (and offwidth, but we'll ignore that for now). A. In other words, alpine climbs are long, complex, and are best done as quickly as possible. Rifle’s limestone sport climbing is some of the best in the United States, especially for routes from 5. Specifically, nuts have been linked to better heart health, brain health, and reduced inflammation. Ice Climbing: Similar to mixed climbing but with ice axes and crampons, Ice Climbers climb on steep ice formations (frozen waterfalls or glaciers). I'm a new trad climber interested in the long alpine style routes that are often 10+ pitches. you can supplement with bigger or smaller gear if you need to. We really hope you find it useful. As per their original purpose, all the tools we looked at do an adequate job of cleaning nuts. DMM Wallnuts. With this set, Alpidex offers a classic 10 pcs chock set which covers a large size range. The wall nuts enable a safe placing in the rock by their asymmetrical shape with notches and broad contact face. But even today, it can be a good tool for those times when you need a multi directional placement and are low on cams, or want to preserve them for further up the pitch. I personally use straight-gate Spirits to rack nuts, because I find the smooth shape and keylock nose make for easy handling on-route. For alpine climbing though, you could consider the Halfnuts, essentially a May 6, 2025 · Our team of climbing experts leverages more than 40 years of combined climbing experience, styling alpine ascents and performing rescues with the Yosemite Search and Rescue. A good alpine pack is strong but not too heavy. While all nuts can help improve your overall health, we wanted to explore the healthiest nuts out of the bunch. This set comes with ten different sized climbing nuts which allow for a wide range of applications. Important Specs; 2. Dec 5, 2023 · The pack will cost you, but those getting out a lot in cooler alpine environments will find the Prism is an excellent investment for longevity and enjoyment. Let's begin with a definition. Your standard double rack is complete, and you now have enough gear to climb almost any classic that you have ever dreamed about! An alpine climbing rack should be pretty small and light, you shouldn't have maybe more than around 5 cams and a set of nuts, so carrying a #4, #5, #6 even a #3 seems like a lot of weight and pretty big gear to carry for that type of climbing. They also need to feel light and sit close to your back. Unlike traditional symmetrical nuts, Peenuts have an asymmetrical shape that allows them to provide better protection in certain climbing situations, making Posted by u/deadphish1 - 9 votes and 35 comments Mar 3, 2023 · For trad, alpine, and ice climbers they serve to attach screws and nuts to your line, or to extend cam placements. One thing is for sure, not all quickdraws function equally. 5” to 3. The best way to rack these is on two or three oval carabiners with six to eight nuts per biner. But in Yosemite, where single pitches can often range from fingers to off-width, you might need a greater number of cams to cover that range of sizes. xkxjww efm fpjbpa nxyvypv hxlc uoznawl zqy nkryjd ovyf cgbrk