Pro climbers ape index I hope you find what you search for but it really won't tell you anything about climbing. May 30, 2023 · Related: Your Ape Index and 10 Other Really Super Important Measurements; Another interesting finding revealed by Randall and Torr is that shorter climbers need the strongest fingers for the grade, with every reduction of 10 centimeters in height correlating to the climber needing to be 2. Climbers use their hands to support their body weight. Why is the ape index talked about so much in the rock-climbing community? From a simple and logical standpoint, rock climbing is about advancing to the top of the route or problem. It also takes physical strength, endurance, and agility to be successful in rock climbing. 5 percent stronger. Nov 2, 2023 · Pro Climbers & Their Ape Index. Recently published in the Journal of Strength and Conditioning, Ozimek, M et. Have you ever seen the wingspan vs height on some pro Oct 4, 2011 · The climbers in this study had significantly (p<0,001) greater arm length and arm span and significantly higher ape index scores than the controls (1. This measurement is similar to the ape index, but excludes the torso. Finally, a guy that claimed to have been climbing for 6 months and their hardest boulder problem was V10. arm span to height ratio calculatorarm span to height ratio calculatorarm span to height ratio calculator Jan 7, 2016 · A person’s “ape index” is their arm length relative to their height. Ape index is basically the same as reach. Quite a few great climbers (e. Mar 14, 2023 · Tl;dr: This analysis shows that weight, gender, height, and ape index do not play a significant role in a person’s maximum sport climbing grade or bouldering grade. Lynn Hill, Alex Megos) don't have a positive ape index. 4 cm and between +1. although we all faced that moment when an extra 2 cm would have made the difference between life and death, right? Here’s an Ape Index Chart of some of the best climbers out there: Jul 14, 2023 · If you have a wingspan shorter than your height, you would say you have a minus x (again, x equals the number of inches difference) ape index. The best male climbers are on average 4 cm shorter than their non-climbing peers and female climbers around 1 cm shorter. Discover your reach-to-height ratio and improve your climbing performance. 4 inch (+1 cm) ape index. NB that there Sep 22, 2021 · After climbing for 15 years, veterinarian turned pro climber Heather Weidner, the instructor for Climbing Magazine’s Intro to Sport Climbing course, constantly strives to push her boundaries. 11. The year was 2019, and Foster, who'd Oct 14, 2019 · The first model tested the correlation of Ability with Sex, BMI, Ape-index, and Height, finding that a higher Ape-index and being Male is correlated with a higher climbing ability. Others point to flawless technique and mental strength. I keep feet low for the cruxy left cross. Not much differences however. , arms longer than they are tall. I'm about 5'0" with a negative 1" ape index, and what I've noticed Adam Ondra (Czech pronunciation: [ˈadam ˈondra]; born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. An extra two centimetres doesn’t mean that much, but I know that it feels so, especially when you are on the boulder and stretching just to touch that far-fetched hold. g. This was even noticeable among pro climbers before the olympics. Both male and female sport climbers presented higher lean muscle mass than control subjects only in the study of Philippe et al. In time that sort of climbing will result in more muscle mass for most climbers. The ape index can be measured in two ways, either it is the difference or the ratio of your arm span and… Apr 27, 2025 · Mermier et al. Mar 4, 2023 · This analysis shows that weight, gender, height, and ape index do not play a significant role in a person’s maximum sport climbing grade or bouldering grade. I've got a -4cm ape index, climbing with friends with positive ones, the main difference is that while bouldering, we're forced to use different betas. 14d, is just 5’8” and has a zero ape index. Jan 9, 2015 · Here at Brooklyn Boulders we have a range of positive, neutral, and negative ape indexes. But yeah, it's definitely an aspect that plays a role. Speed Climbing isn’t Ondra’s thing. 7 and +8. In order to reach my "pro climber ideal weight", I had to lose around 30lbs. That’s exceedingly unremarkable. Some notable areas where the ape index is important include: Rock Climbing and Bouldering. . 4 cm. Just find a 8a wich doesn't require huge moves, there are plenty of those. com Jul 13, 2021 · Factors like the climber’s ability to maintain grip and balance play a vital role in rock climbing. The negative ape index (below 1) means that your wingspan is lower than your height. Jun 18, 2021 · Ape Index is often discussed in other sports such as rock climbing and boxing, where longer arms are usually considered an advantage. hoseok lee has a terrible ape index and still crushes really hard . The Ape Index Calculator is a handy online tool designed to help you measure the difference between your arm span and your height. Ape Index and Climbing. 131 likes, 2 comments - miguelclimbs on June 19, 2024: "I don't often meet many climbers with a negative ape index. Your ape index is the ratio between your height and your arm span. It seems like he has focused on bouldering and more dynamic stuff like ninja warrior for several years now. The average human ape index is probably 0 using the subtraction method or 1 using the ratio method. A positive index is seen as advantageous for climbers. Foster laughed. I did mine last june ;) Enjoy your climbing and don't bother with things you can't control ! Another guy claimed to have been climbing for 5 months and their hardest boulder problem was V8. Of course having a positive ape index is a pro but i do think there are certain movments where having a negative ape index helps. To explain it plainly, the APE Index is popular in sports and fitness, especially among climbers, as it can provide insights into reach advantage. The Sloth Index. 2in (+3 cm) NATIONALITY Norwegian How Good Is Magnus Midtbø? Magnus Midtbø's hardest redpoint was Ali Hulk (sit start extension) 9a+\\b (5. Lean muscle mass, ape index, and bone mineral density of sport climbers and control subjects are shown in Table 3. The typical ape index for pro male climbers ranges between +3. Sure, a positive ape index definitely helps - no doubt about it But the importance of ape index is overstated in my personal opinion. Jacob was visiting from the Bay area and really loved the setting here, especially this slabby V5/V6. Pro climber Chelsea Rude, who’s onsighted up to 5. The best female lead climbers are around 163 cm tall and the best boulderers around 164 cm tall. On average, professional male climbers have a larger ape index than professional female climbers. When I first started climbing 15 years ago, the term “girl climbs” was still being thrown around in all its gender-stereotyping glory. Jul 27, 2020 · Interesting topic from the climbing community and how it relates to sports HEIGHT 5′ 8″ AGE 35 APE INDEX +1. . A high ape index, however, basically gives the benefit of being tall with almost none of the associated extra weight. It was originally graded a 9b but has since been downgraded to 9a+\\b. 03, because even that is a genetic rarity. Everything is just easier. (2000) included ape index in their characteristics of climbers and concluded that a large portion of the various abilities in climbing were explained by trainable variables and not by specific anthropometric characteristics (like ape index), and that engaging in a training program is more important that natural characteristics. Jul 9, 2021 · The Average Ape Index Compared to Famous Climbers Average Ape Index. In climbing, the ape Index is crucial for understanding a climber's reach, ability to span gaps between holds May 31, 2022 · Alex Megos, the first climber to onsight 5. The analysis shows the most important factor in getting better at outdoor rock climbing is going climbing outside (crazy!), followed by several varieties of finger strength and upper Not a climber girl here, but just saying, Lynn Hill, Puccio and Sasha do not have negative 7 ape index's. Feb 23, 2020 · It’s common to hear a climbing buddy holding forth about their diminutive stature and how it’s putting them at a disadvantage. Is a Positive Ape Index Good for Climbing? Jul 15, 2016 · Most pro climbers have massive ape indexeslook at Chris Sharma. The best male lead climbers are around 174 cm tall and the best boulderers around 175 cm tall. This measurement, called the ape index, is widely used in sports science, especially in activities like rock climbing, swimming, and martial arts, where having a longer reach can offer a performance advantage. I’d like to watch their technique because im sure it’s different than the shorter/average women and any of the men. I would say your best bet is to go climbing outside. Michael Phelps has an ape index of 1. 13c and repointed much harder, seems to do just fine with her -2” ape index. What is Ape Index? Calculate your ape index with our easy-to-use Ape Index Calculator. Adam Ondra Speed Climbing. Route setters inside do a notoriously BAD job at setting for shorter folks, and even more so if you have really short arms. In 2013, Rock & Ice described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Increase your REACH as a short Climber: https://www. For a climber so dedicated to the movement of climbing, climbing the same route over and over doesn’t appeal. V10 in half a year at the age of 19, that guy is either on his way to being a pro climber (I'm thinking David Fitzgerald level here) or he's lying. Rob Henry, our climbing assistant, stands at 6’4″ but his arms span a whopping 6’8″, giving him a Feb 1, 2023 · IIRC for male pro climbers 5'10 or so is the average height. See full list on climbinghouse. In case you We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. His on-sight record stands at an impressive 8c+ Mar 1, 2025 · The APE Index (Wingspan to Height Ratio) Calculator is a fine tool that is used to measure the ratio between an individual’s wingspan and their height. The analysis shows the most important factor in getting better at outdoor rock climbing is going climbing outside (crazy!), followed by several varieties of finger strength and upper-body strength. (2000) for adult male climbers (1. The average climbing community probably averages much more on the plus side. Then, divide by your height. None of the analyzed work showed differences between sport climber groups in the ape index (12,19,29). Apr 25, 2024 · For climbers, a more useful way to express the ape index is to subtract height from arm span, giving a value that is either positive, neutral or negative. 57cm) Nationality British Will Bosi: Early Life, Age, and Rise to Elite Climbing Will Bosi, born in Edinburgh, Scotland, in 1998, Rock climbing is a complex sport and there are clearly many factors that impact our performance. A positive ape index is considered advantageous for rock climbers. Nov 4, 2019 · ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEAWhat is the best body type for climbing? Tall or short? Skinny or muscular?We dig into this a little bit more an Apr 18, 2022 · Ape index is a term taken from rock climbing and refers to your height to wingspan ratio. HEIGHT 5′ 8″ AGE 30 APE INDEX +0 in (+0 cm) NATIONALITY German How Tall Is Alex Megos? Alex Megos stands at 5′ 8″ (173cm). 02, respectively), the ape index values being similar to those observed by Mermier et al. There’s also a slight bias between the sexes. Ashima’s ape index is similarly advantageous. All too often a route they’ve been struggling with for the past half an hour is a walk in the park for their 6’ 2” mate, which is often followed by a lot of cursing and claims of an unfair advantage. Ape index 1 = 1. Jul 16, 2018 · The Ape Index: What It Is And How To Find It. 6 and +9. e. Interesting- a few weeks ago I spanned out with "Too Tall Tim" (Davis) who is 6'6" or so and discovered he has only a couple inches of armspan on me. 06; Rajon Rondo’s is 1. Olympic swimmers and pro basketball players tend to have high ape indexes, i. com/watch?v=NWadW APE index doesn't correlate well at all with climbing performance and it doesn't predict climbing performance in novice climbers. com Oct 8, 2021 · Alex Megos, one of the best sport climbers in the world, has an ape index of 0 (or, an ape index ratio of 1) And Adam Ondra, arguably the greatest living climber, has a +0. There are climbers with negative ape like Ondra and some with +10 cm like Jan Hojer. I know pro women tend to be on the shorter-average end of height, but I’m 6 feet tall and can’t really find info on any other tall girl climbers. youtube. A while back I also looked at the BMI of some pro climbers, and adopted that as a weight loss goal. I'm no crusher, but the difference in my climbing is already promising. Jun 8, 2019 · Two beautiful shots from Croatia edited for Comparison as it is tradition on this channel, this time taking a look at different body types in terms of reach, Apr 20, 2009 · years 20+ (depending on what you consider climbing) Ape index, huh? My spine is all messed up and crooked, which is what artifically decreases my height and thus pumps up the index. 1. At least, this is what I tell myself as a firmly plateaued tall climber. This will give you a value that’s either positive, neutral, or negative. I think mine is probably minus 17. Try our free online calculator now! In rock climbing it is believed that an ape index greater than one, where the arm span is greater than the height, provides for a competitive advantage, and some climbers have expressed the belief that exercise can result in an improved ratio, although this view is somewhat controversial. [ 1 ] We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Mar 19, 2024 · Most people, myself included, like climbing on things that suit them. Jacob cruised this prob and many others today! #beta #comparison". 6 and +10. In climbing, any height can be advantageous, as different physiques offer unique strengths. 06 Ape Index 2 - 4 inches Only a tiny minority of professional climbers have an ape index higher than 1. Being tall is great in theory for climbing because you have better reach, but this is often offset by also having longer legs, resulting in a higher center of gravity and making it more difficult to utilize higher feet. Which are the most important, and what can we train to improve our sport climbing or bouldering grade? Small climbers will complain that it is height, heavy climbers, weight. Nov 28, 2023 · Choose Measurement Unit: Inches (in) Centimeters (cm) Your Armspan: ℹ️ Your Height: ℹ️ CALCULATE APE INDEX Your Ape Index (Armspan - Height): Your Ape Index (Armspan ÷ Height): What is the Ape Index? The Ape Index compares an individual's arm span to their height. Speaking of pro climbers, statistically, most pro climbers male or female have a +2 ape index which is not that much. Nov 2, 2023 · Pro Climbers & Their Ape Index. Jul 25, 2024 · Height 5’9” (175–176 cm) Age 26 Ape Index +1. It's a term well-known in climbing circles and is often outdoorrackbuilder. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search May 31, 2022 · "Just try it," Keenan Griscom said. 0). He does train and he doesn’t often give Saved Content. When you already know how to measure your ape ratio, you need to know that most of society has a neutral ape index, which means it equals around 1. What is a good ape index for climbing? As a general rule, a good ape index for climbing is between +2. 15b) sent on Aug 29th, 2010. I'd have a hard time arguing that it's not beneficial. For me this means crimpy, technical, power-endurance lines (so long as the crimps aren’t too small) and a total absence of full-palm slopers, all-out dynos, wide spans, tiny feet, kneebars, heel hooks, toe hooks, or anything else that might make the movement feel hard for me. Megos uses his height and build to excel in both technical precision and dynamic power, highlighting th As a short climber, sometimes the way I do moves on routes or boulders is a lot different than what a taller person would do. 8in (+4. On the other hand, a positive ape index (above 1) means that your wingspan is greater than your height. 05 vs. And world-champion competition climber Sean McColl is just 5’ 6½” tall. although we all faced that moment when an extra 2 cm would have made the difference between life and death, right? Here’s an Ape Index Chart of some of the best climbers out there: Jun 4, 2024 · Statistically, pro climbers, male and female, usually have a +2 ape index. al studied the body type of elite Polish boulderers to evaluate if variables such as body shape or ape index had any correlation to the level of climbing met by a group of Polish elite climbers. Moreover, ape index nearly significantly correlated with Jul 9, 2021 · Because he prefers climbing outside he doesn’t attend as many of the events as others but still has 14 medals overall. Dec 14, 2021 · Ape Index Calculator Height: inches cm Wingspan: inches cm Calculate A very common subject among climbers is their ape index. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. com/watch?v=t7Fewv2pEdk&t=132sTop Climbing Moments of 2022: https://www. 3 cm for pro female climbers. Perfect for athletes, climbers, and fitness enthusiasts looking to optimize their training. However, a lot of it comes down to indeed climbimg specific training. The ape index holds significance in various fields and activities where body proportions can impact performance or have specific applications. 13a in Colorado's Clear Creek Canyon. Therefore the “ ape index ” or gorilla index matters in rock climbing. I am now down 17lbs after about 2 months. For the level that most of us will ever get too i dont think something like ape index will matter too much. First, measure your wingspan, from outstretched fingertip to fingertip. And let's be honest: sometimes what I do is harder than what a normal-sized person would do. Feb 7, 2024 · Climbing at a high level lends itself to a certain body type. Liam Foster looked at his friend, then up at Machine Gun Funk, a 5. To find your ape index, subtract your height from the length of your arm span.
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