Triple length sling for climbing reddit You can usually get them 40% off if you shop the sales. I use a triple length sling instead of cord most of the time now. Posted by u/Red_Raven - No votes and 23 comments Another method that works in a pinch is to use two slings or a Prusik and a long sling with a friction knot. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. For most of my alpine draws I use the standard 60cm slings (single length slings), and I also often carry one or two 120 cm slings for when I'm trying to reduce rope drag from a placement that creates an angle in the rope. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. Also slings tend to last quite a long time - I have had mine for at least a thousand pitches of climbing and they are holding up. Cordellette for chopping into v-threads (wet ice) or rescue application. offsets nuts are really nice to have Use a water knot and leave 3" tails. The slings could be doubled up if length is an issue. Being doubled gives me plenty of length for Prusiks, load releasable knots, etc. All in all the draw weighs in at 60 grams. 5 C4 = 12 kN), you should feel safe top roping on the cordelette. Knife. I just like longer to reduce rope drag. On the up, the locker doubles as the locker for my ATC in guide mode, the prusik can double as an extra sling if I run out. Slings rated to be used for mountaineering and rock climbing will be most commonly denoted by a label at the seam reading “EN566” or another certification like a "UIAA”, which is sometimes found on the 90 votes, 117 comments. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. Dynema is amazing. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. That's 12 pieces of gear for a pitch, without including the anchor or any that you could clip directly. Extra long extension or anchors. But 99 times out of 100 I'll pick dynema. I would make them longer and the "power point" shorter. cut rope to length. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. I always carry prussik cord with me when climbing outdoors, because I like the option to go hands free on rappel, and have anchor building material. I have 6 alpines (60cm/ shoulder length sling, Camp Photons on both sides), and my main partners have at least 6 if not more. it's dangerous. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. there's a lot of information in the stickied post on this sub but standard rack is doubles . 6 or so alpine draws a few of your sport quickdraws, some 7mm cord to build anchors and some lockers. Double length slings. The Codyball looks fine too though if you really want to bring 12 feet of cord. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2*(rating oft the sling)*0. Also make sure you understand the various sling tension / sling angle configurations and use what is best for your given situation. The metalwork will be totally fine; it's the slings you need to worry about due to long-term exposure to UV light and chemicals. This version has 2 arms, one is a fixed length and designed to be used to extend your rappel (though you can use it as an anchor as well), and the other arm is longer with an ascender type device that you can use to adjust the length. Just don't go climbing over it full length, and falling directly on it (although it could probably take that). 3 to 0. The slings were like 6” in diameter and like 20’ long. 5 can vary from 0. Basically, I need a lightweight harness for scrambles and single pitch climbs, normally after a long approach and before a long descent. With a triple sling, you can double it over itself twice, twist it a few times, and clip it to the locker you girth hitched to. Left Rear: alpine draws and maybe a double length runner for super extended placements. I've actually taken to bringing a reverso (not sure which generation exactly, but it's bent aluminum in a ridiculously simple shape) to reduce the clusterfuck of super skinny ropes, not the modern one. On here sits all the extra stuff. It is maybe slightly bulky, but I haven't found it to be an issue. For single length slings (2'), you can either put them over one shoulder (with or w/o 1 carabiner each), or double them up on 2 carabiners each: i. alpine draw. 35oz to 3. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. If you feel safe taking lead falls on cams (BD 0. I find myself using the cordelette less and less often and just making anchors out of a double length sling and maybe an additional alpine draw. Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. 1. For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. As for strength between dyneema/nylon, tests have shown that even when wet, neither sling loses enough strength to be a concern, but of the two, dyneema was almost completely unaffected. Slings, doesn't really matter. The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. Two anchor pieces, each about the size of a draw on your harness, and pretty darn light. At ~5 bucks a sling you can get 10 for 50 and be set for a normal rack. 3 upside down cams. If you’re considering slings for hanging a ring to a hard point, I usually carry at least one single length and one double. Holy shit it's so nice for anchors. And yes we are scared of falling. Or two singles. every area is different but that one fits a large majority of climbs. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. Abalakov hooker tool. . All my alpine draws are dynema and my favourite piece of rack is my quad length dynema sling. This is competitively light with the Sterling Dyneema Sling , although just a few grams heavier than the lightest slings in this review, such as the Petzl Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. 19K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. CAMP Express 180 cm sling. The only concern I have is the length of the bunny ears. Two reasons: 1)If the bolts are spaced further apart it is possible to create an obtuse triangle between the knot, creating greater forces at the knot and on the bolts. On my glacier rack I use the electricians coil on my single length slings too, since they will only be used in an emergency. On the up, it can be used to extend. Sep 1, 2023 · The most commonly used length is 60cm (or 24"), which is commonly referred to as “shoulder-length,” and most frequently used to extend a piece of climbing protection to reduce rope drag on the leader. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. Most climbers prefer to rack their gear on their harnesses, but there might be times when you’re short on racking space and a sling over your shoulder is the easiest solution. Your "triple fisherman's stopper" is a triple overhand knot (or triple overhand stopper), a (franciscan) friar's knot, or perhaps a barrel knot (though that name itself is used for a variety of different knots, and in addition we must beware not to confuse all these barrel knots with the barrel hitch or barrel sling) . If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. -2 HMS style lockers for clove hitches. I’m thinking of a set of Black Diamond C4 cams from . As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. I never believed the hype of the petzl spirit until I got a couple. Jun 7, 2024 · Petzl Pur’Anneau 180 cm sling. set of nuts. com A basic trad rack might include 12 single-length slings, 4 to 6 double-length slings and 2 triples (or 2 cordelettes) for the anchors. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. -double length sling. I attach my chalk bag with an untied length of 6-7mm cord. But if not, I'll use a 20ft 6mm cord, don't care what brand, it's just cord. The bolts were a bit off to one another and to properly pre-equalize the system I used an overhand knot to slightly shorten one of the slings. Sep 25, 2020 · Proper climbing slings will be sewn together using a bar tack technique and will be rated to a minimum breaking strength of 22kN. you can supplement with bigger or smaller gear if you need to. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Also, any PAS or personal tether is generally girth hitched, not attached with a carabiner so you only need 2 not 3 (in some cases 1 but then you give up redundancy). (It won’t work nearly so well with a nylon runner because the knots are too big, plus finding a 180 cm nylon runner is difficult. ) A 10 mm or 11 mm Dyneema sling is recommended for As an aside I don't think anyone outside of totally new climbers pay full price for slings. -Prussik cord with a locker. Compact, quick, easy. jg We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. On the down this is used to extend my rappel. Because the space between them was pretty large and my 120cm sling (or double length I heard is called) was creating a larger angle (about 60) I decided to use 2 120 slings. Oct 22, 2017 · Any issues with using a (nylon or dyneema) double-length sling (sliding x with limiters) for a two-bolt anchor, either on TR (where there's no issue with rope or biners running over an edge, so no static line build needed)? I usually use a quad or a sliding x with limiters made from 7 mm cord, but the slings are more compact, and I'm curious. Just totally absurd and your video reminded me of those Thinking about replacing the normal cordelette/quad length sling with a 15' length of tech cord for multipitch trad. Apr 12, 2019 · We tested the 60cm double-length version of this sling and weighed it at 20g, tied with the Trango Low Bulk 11 Sling as the second lightest of all that we have tested. sling with: nuts, tricams, cams, nut tool, alpine draws, a couple of double length slings sling with quickdraws sling with: PAS; megajul (on an HMS); HMS holding pivot, a locking D, a prusik, and another HMS; wiregate with knife, another prusik, and nanotraxion; cordalette; two quad length slings; belay gloves; crack gloves You can still get ultratape at Moosejaw. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. The home of Climbing on reddit. Also, if you are going to start climbing trad in the future, I'd invest in some triple-length dyneema slings and biners to make your own alpine draws. I do always carry 1 or 2 double length Nylon slings for use as personal anchors, slinging trees, and for kliemhiest hitches. The length doesn't matter because you can get the positrons in 17cm. Blue Ice Mission 180 cm sling. Comfort doesn’t matter too much but lightweight and easy of use does. You will find that using a single sling for pas and for other purposes is not practical as you will spend unnecessary time tying and untying knots rather than climbing! And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I' A safer alternative using the gear in hand would be to use one sling per bolt and knot the two together above the lockers. It is only one gram heavier than the two lightest slings, the Mammut Contact Sling and the Petzl Pur'Anneau Sling. The PAS for starters can be replaced with a double length sling taking the price from ~$30 to ~$9. Most people I know use a sling or two to clip into the anchor setup. I like to carry a triple length dyneema sling for quick 3 piece anchors and slinging boulders. Factors like the type of climbing, the length and type of route, the rock and character of the climbing area and your personal climbing style all play a role in how you set up your rack. 139 votes, 47 comments. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. 3 to 3, DMM wallnuts #1-11, and 8 60cm slings and 2 120cm slings. You can make each end a different length to make rappelling easier. But I didn’t see a need in this particular case. 17oz, depending on which And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. Get 20-30' of climbing spec 7mm static line and you then tie the thing into 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Another popular length is 120cm (48"), a sling that is most frequently used for equalizing multiple pieces of protection in an anchor. So, friction knot > carabiner > friction knot. I have a bunch of quick draws that I can repurpose as alpine draws using runners. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. The FB-Sling friction knot is my goto if I have to use a sling for a friction knot. And honestly, two equallettes isn't bad. You could also girth the sling to your harness and tie an overhand to adjust the length. Apr 12, 2019 · For comparison to the other double-length slings in this review, however, we are forced to rely on what Metolius advertises as the weight of their double-length (60cm) sling, which is 22g. It's doubled around my waist so there's a bight and two ends. Auto-blocking belay device. As one of the lightest slings available, this is a great choice Really depends on the scenario. There's a cool channel on YT called 'how not to highline' where they subject some 10-year-old-plus Metolius TCUs (like you have with the red sling) to beyond 7KN, and the slings break long before the lobes fail. One light ascending device for simul-climbing, rope ascension, or rescue application. Double-length slings (12 cm) can either be racked over the shoulder or clipped to a carabiner and then a gear loop. Posted by u/WildWilly29 - 5 votes and 29 comments I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. Mammut Contact 180 cm sling. The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. I love ultratape but for ice climbing and remote alpine rock, I have started using more and more dyneema slings. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. -quad length sling. Posted by u/ptw_tech - 5 votes and 14 comments two triple length slings with a locker on them. This is just like setting a two bolt anchor except with your harness at the master point. If you already have some QDs from sport climbing, you can bring those, but I rarely do. And attached to the rope using a Mallon, or quick link. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. A single can work over most 4x6 rigs but is often tight to do with 1 beaner. I use the two ends to tie a sheet bend in the bight. These (or the 180 cm slings you mentioned) could be used as draw extenders in your case. Thread it through your tie in points, then tie an overhand. Equalized with a triple length sling. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ I’m building my first trad rack for climbing within a couple hours of the Seattle area, mostly at Index and Leavenworth, Vantage in the winter. Sep 1, 2023 · At times, there was only a difference of a single gram between different slings, and even if you multiplied this difference by 10 (for the number of slings you might carrying on a route), 10g in the best case, or 190g if comparing the lightest to the heaviest (19g x 10 slings), is still only a difference of . Double the sling over, grab both loops, twist, then clip them back to the locker in a good, twisty mess. 5-3 C4 cam size. The climbing rope between the two friction knots is slightly slack and the inexpensive sling takes the load over the abrasive edge. For short rappels the double shoulder length sling diaper harness is the absolute shit. 864 votes, 72 comments. You'll need about 10 feet of webbing to make a 4 foot sling. Sometimes I like to place a nut or cam just above to hold tension so I dont have to worry about the rope walking the cams. The slings could be looped multiple times over the biner attached to the bolt or knotted to equalize. A skinny Dyneema sling is best for this. I still carry a double length nylon for a person anchor or if I need something maybe a bit more abrasion resistant. e. the knot might snag. 6 million pounds.
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